Cleaning tack

Five steps to leather luster

In the show ring, competition can be so tight that placings may ultimately come down to the finest details such as your tack’s cleanliness and condition. Clean and well-conditioned tack is also a safety must, because dry leather is breakable leather.

While there are multiple ways to properly clean a saddle or bridle, good basic leather care is always the foundation and will yield beautiful results.

Getting started

Step 1: Dust your entire saddle with a clean cloth. Anything you leave will be scrubbed into the saddle during cleaning, which can dull the shine and leave a muddy appearance.

Step 2 (optional): Some people believe that water can damage a saddle, but according to others, short-term application for cleaning is acceptable. If your saddle is extremely dirty, you can hose it down (you’ll replace the oils later in the process). Pat excess water off with a towel or cloth.

Step 3: Apply a saddle soap (glycerin; multiple varieties are available), massaging the lather into the leather in a circular motion. For tooled saddles, use a toothbrush to reach the grooves. Don’t apply to suede or rough-out areas.

Step 4: Use a damp towel followed by a dry towel to remove any leftover soap that will attract dirt when it dries. Use a cotton swab to remove soap from crevices.

Step 5: While the leather is still slightly damp, apply a non-detergent conditioner, such as neatsfoot oil (don’t use synthetic), lanolin or beeswax. Apply a thin coat; too much will soak through and may cause damage. Also, be aware that some conditioners will darken leather, so inquire first or test in a safe place.

Metal fittings and stirrups for English tack can also be cleaned with plain soap and water. On all saddles, don’t forget to clean and condition the billet and latigo straps and stirrup leathers. And for suede or rough-out saddles, you can use a soft bristle brush occasionally to make it look especially nice.

Caring for specialty tack

Crystals

Flash and “bling” remain popular this summer, including tack covered in crystals and ornately painted designs. For those who own this trendy gear, here are tips to keep it looking luxurious for years.
Jennifer Valek of Cowgirl Bling Tack creates and sells Swarovski crystal tack online at www.jlvwd.com. She points out there are two main variations—adhesive sets or rim stud sets—to consider when caring for crystals. Adhesive sets (attached to leather with strong bonding agents) are actually more durable, comparable to a pane of glass. But, they can shatter under heavy weight or be scratched, so Jennifer recommends handling them with care. Basic care is simple; just buff with a soft cloth.
In the case of rim sets, the crystals and rims they’re set in are purchased separately. They can also be buffed with a soft cloth, but dirt can actually get in along the rims and settle under the crystal, causing damage. To remove it, she recommends a can of spray air. Rim sets aren’t quite as durable because the rim can bend, allowing the crystal to fall out.

Painted tack

Painted tack is also trendy and, according to Alamo Saddlery, it’s quite easy to care for. Long, flat sections, such as the brow band, tend to crack easier since it bends more. However, most painted areas consist of flowers or rosettes and they bend very little, which eliminates most of the cracking and peeling. Should the tack need some repair to fix cracking or fading, any acrylic paint and glitter sealant (available at most craft or discount stores) will do the trick. Other than that, continue your regular leather care program.
Tip: Formula 409, a household cleaner, works wonders on dirty black rawhide on bridles and saddle cantles. It’ll initially soften the rawhide, but will dry normally and look nearly new.

Sparkling silver

Horse show crowds are very familiar with that icky black or green that creeps onto dazzling silver show gear. However, you don’t need to go to tremendous expense to remove the haze. For small jobs, try white toothpaste. Squeeze a dab onto your finger and rub it into the tarnish. Rinse with hot water and buff with a cloth.
For larger jobs, make a paste out of baking soda and water, then rinse and buff. For extreme tarnish, leave the baking soda on for about an hour.

By Doreen Shumpert

Printed in the July 2007 issue of Appaloosa Journal.

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